Wednesday, October 14, 2026

Women's Babies: The 2026 Guide to Strap Shoes

The "babies" is the shoe whose silhouette everyone recognizes but whose name few women know. A strap across the top of the foot, a round toe, a buckle: you can spot it on school playgrounds, in family photographs, and—for the past few seasons—on the street, worn with jeans or a suit. It has moved beyond childhood without losing its signature look.

This guide to women's mules explains the origins of the mule, details its different styles—flat, heeled, double-strap, and platform—and outlines the criteria for choosing a comfortable pair: the position and adjustment of the strap, the sole, the material, and the heel height. It concludes with ideas on how to wear them today.

Where Do "Babies" Come From: From Buster Brown to the Streets

The strap shoe predates its name. It is the name itself that has a specific history.

Mary Jane, a name from a comic book

In English, this type of shoe is called a "Mary Jane." The name comes from the American comic strip *Buster Brown*, created by Richard Felton Outcault and published in the *New York Herald* beginning in 1902. The hero, a mischievous little boy, has a friend or sister named Mary Jane; both wear round-toed shoes with straps. An American shoe company later acquired the rights to the characters for its advertising, and the strap-style shoe eventually came to be named after the little girl.

The shoe itself existed before the comic strip: shoes with straps across the top of the foot were part of children's clothing long before 1902. Buster Brown gave a name and widespread popularity to a style that already existed.

From children's shoes to women's shoes

In French, the word “babies,” pronounced in the French manner, refers to the same type of shoe and alludes to its origins as children’s footwear. During the 20th century, the “babies” made the transition from the schoolyard to women’s wardrobes, first worn with ankle socks and short dresses, then reimagined in a heeled version by numerous fashion houses.

It retains a soft, almost demure quality from its origins, which designers have alternately embraced and subverted: high-heeled, pointed-toe Mary Janes; platform Mary Janes; and black patent leather Mary Janes worn with white socks. Today, they’re worn by people of all ages and in all settings, from the office to a night out.

Variations: flat, with a heel, with double straps, with a platform

The bridle is the constant. Everything else varies.

Flat and with a heel

The flat baby shoe is the closest to the original style: round toe, thin or slightly structured sole, and a simple strap with a buckle. It’s worn like a ballet flat but offers better support for the foot; it pairs well with jeans, a skirt, or a dress, and is suitable for days spent walking if the sole is slightly structured.

The heeled loafer has become a full-fledged office and formal shoe. The three- to five-centimeter block heel is the most versatile; the boot heel and kitten heel give it a more retro look; the seven- to eight-centimeter stiletto heel makes it an evening shoe. The strap adds what the pump lacks: support for the foot that allows you to walk and dance without the shoe slipping off.

Double flange, T-flange, platform

The double-strap moccasin—with two parallel straps across the top of the foot—offers even better support and has a more graphic look. The T-strap, which connects the horizontal strap to the toe of the shoe with a vertical strip, evokes the 1920s and 1930s and complements a formal or evening gown.

The platform Mary Jane, which has come and gone several times, features a thick sole under the forefoot and a high block heel; it’s comfortable for its height but has a bulky silhouette. The square-toed Mary Jane and the wide-strap Mary Jane, both more recent styles, pair well with wide-leg pants and a confident look.

The Strap: Position, Adjustment, and Comfort

The strap is what sets the Mary Jane apart and determines its comfort.

Where the strap should go

The strap should go over the instep—that is, the highest part of the top of the foot—and not at the base of the toes. When placed on the instep, it holds the foot in place without squeezing it or restricting flexion while walking. If placed too low, it compresses the forefoot and allows the heel to lift off the ground.

A headstall that cuts into the skin and leaves a red mark after an hour is either too thin, too tight, or made of stiff material. A wide headstall made of soft, double-layered leather, with a smooth side against the skin, distributes pressure evenly and is barely noticeable.

Buckle, button, elastic

The adjustable buckle allows you to adjust the strap to fit the volume of your foot, which changes throughout the day. It is the most comfortable and durable system, provided the strap has multiple holes. The button, which is more elegant and retro in style, is not adjustable and requires a precise fit.

The elastic strap—whether hidden under the leather or visible—slips on without needing to be opened and conforms to the foot, but it stretches over time and provides less support than a buckle. The practical Velcro strap is typically found on children's shoes.

• Position: on the instep, never at the base of the toes
• Width: wide strap made of soft, lined leather, with a smooth side against the skin
• Adjustable buckle: the most comfortable and durable system
• Button: elegant, non-adjustable; must be tried on to ensure a precise fit

Soles, Fit, and Materials

Just like with ballet flats, the comfort of a Mary Jane depends on the fit underfoot and the material.

Sole and Fit

A very flexible flat Mary Jane with a thin sole can be tiring to walk in, much like a flexible ballet flat; a slightly structured sole, with a small heel of one to two centimeters, a leather insole, and a subtle arch, allows you to walk in them all day long. On a heeled Mary Jane, the arch support must conform to the foot’s natural arch to prevent the foot from sliding forward—a problem that the strap can only partially compensate for.

The classic round toe provides room for the toes; the almond-shaped toe makes the foot look longer; the square toe is suitable for wide feet. The leather lining prevents chafing, especially when the Mary Janes are worn barefoot or with thin socks. The thin rubber or composite outsole provides traction and cushioning.

Smooth leather, patent leather, suede

Smooth leather is the material of choice for everyday Mary Janes: it molds to the foot, is easy to clean, and can be polished. Black patent leather is the iconic material of Mary Janes—the one associated with childhood and evening wear: it has a clean, glossy finish but isn’t breathable, doesn’t mold to the foot, and cracks at the creases over time; it’s best reserved for pairs worn only a few hours at a time.

Suede gives Mary Janes a softer, more autumnal look in burgundy, chocolate, or dark green; it needs to be waterproofed. Synthetic materials don’t wrinkle and keep your feet warm. For everyday Mary Janes, choose smooth leather; for evening Mary Janes, choose patent leather or suede.

How to Wear Mary Janes in 2026

The little girl has left the schoolyard, but she has a memory of it that can be played with or erased.

With tights or socks

Heeled baby shoes paired with black tights and a skirt or dress are the most classic and dressy combination: they’re perfect for the office, a dinner party, and a fall wedding. When paired with colored or patterned tights, they become the standout detail of the outfit.

Flat or low-heeled loafers paired with thin socks—white or the same color as the shoes—and cropped pants or a skirt give off a playful, childlike vibe. It’s a stylish combination best worn with an otherwise understated outfit.

With jeans or a suit

When paired with straight-leg or slightly cropped jeans that show the ankle, flat or block-heeled Mary Janes replace ballet flats or loafers and create a polished look. When paired with wide-leg pants, square-toed or wide-strap Mary Janes balance out the silhouette.

When paired with a pantsuit or skirt suit, block-heeled Mary Janes in smooth black or burgundy leather are a great alternative to pumps—they provide better support and add a softer touch to the outfit. Save the black patent leather ones for the evening.

Frequently Asked Questions